Sonoma: December 2007 Archives

Bistro Basics

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By Courtney Cochran

Accessories.  Plot lines.  Lunch.  

Like so many things in life, food is often best kept simple.  At newly Michelin-starred K & L Bistro in Sebastopol, this mantra couldn’t be truer.  

The tiny spot - sandwiched between storefronts on Main Street in the quiet western Sonoma community - has nailed French bistro fare, without the fuss.  Dishes like pâté of rillettes and wild mushroom risotto don’t look terrifically pretty, but taste like a million bucks.  Which is exactly the way it ought to be at a bistro, where the emphasis has traditionally been on making good food that doesn’t beak the bank.    

The décor follows the food in this respect:  On a recent lunch-time visit, oil paintings of postcard-worthy Paris spots lined the walls, and high ceilings and an open kitchen created a welcome sense of space and easy informality.

Which led me to reflect that with such a simple recipe, this new star has all the makings of staying power.  And there’s nothing simple about that.   

K & L Bistro * 119 South Main St., Sebastopol, CA 95472 * (707) 823-6614 * Open Mon.-Thu. 11:30am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11:30am-10pm

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